First Week With Your New Kitten: Your Complete Guide
The first week with your new kitten sets the stage for a lifetime of companionship. Here's everything you need to create a safe, welcoming environment.
Bringing home a new kitten is an exciting adventure filled with purrs, play, and plenty of learning for both of you. The first week is crucial for helping your kitten adjust to their new environment, establishing routines, and building trust. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know to start your journey together on the right paw.
Before Your Kitten Arrives
Preparation makes all the difference. Before bringing your kitten home, ensure you have these essential supplies ready:
Essential Supplies Checklist
- High-quality kitten food: Ask your breeder, shelter, or rescue what food your kitten has been eating. Purchase the same brand to avoid digestive upset during an already stressful transition period.
- Food and water bowls: Choose shallow bowls that won't overwhelm a small kitten's face. Ceramic or stainless steel options are best as they're easy to clean and don't retain odors like plastic.
- Litter box and litter: For kittens, choose a box with low sides for easy entry. Start with unscented, clumping litter similar to what they've been using. You'll need one box per cat, plus one extra.
- Scratching post: Essential from day one. Choose a sturdy post tall enough for your kitten to stretch fully when grown. Sisal rope or corrugated cardboard are excellent textures.
- Carrier: A secure, well-ventilated carrier is crucial for bringing your kitten home safely and for future vet visits.
- Bedding: Soft, washable bedding for sleeping areas. A heated pad designed for pets can provide comfort, especially for very young kittens.
- Toys: Variety is key - feather wands, balls, mice, and puzzle toys. Kittens have high play drives and need appropriate outlets.
- Collar and ID tag: Even indoor-only cats need identification in case of accidental escape. Choose a breakaway collar designed for cats.
- Grooming supplies: A soft brush, nail clippers designed for cats, and cat-safe toothpaste and toothbrush for starting dental care early.
- Enzymatic cleaner: Accidents happen. Enzymatic cleaners eliminate odors that might encourage repeat incidents.
Kitten-Proofing Your Home
Kittens are curious, agile, and surprisingly capable of finding trouble. Before your kitten arrives, survey your home from a kitten's perspective:
- Secure toxic plants: Many common houseplants are toxic to cats, including lilies (which are deadly), pothos, philodendron, and sago palms. Remove them or place them completely out of reach.
- Hide electrical cords: Use cord covers or tape cords to baseboards. Unplug appliances when not in use.
- Remove small objects: Hair ties, rubber bands, strings, ribbons, and other small items can cause intestinal blockages if swallowed.
- Secure windows and screens: Ensure all windows have secure screens. Cats can squeeze through surprisingly small openings.
- Close off hiding spots: Block access to spaces behind appliances, inside recliners, or under beds where a frightened kitten might hide and become trapped.
- Lock away chemicals: Cleaning products, medications, and automotive fluids must be secured in cabinets with childproof locks if necessary.
- Check for escape routes: Identify and block potential escape routes, especially if you have a garage or basement access.
Day 1: The Arrival
The Journey Home
Transport your kitten in a secure carrier lined with a soft towel. Some kittens vocalize during car rides - this is normal stress behavior. Speak soothingly and keep the radio volume low. Drive carefully to avoid sudden stops that might jostle your kitten.
If the journey is long, don't open the carrier to comfort your kitten. A frightened kitten can escape quickly, and trying to recapture them in a moving vehicle is dangerous. Instead, place your hand against the carrier and speak calmly.
Home Introduction
When you arrive home, take your kitten directly to a prepared safe room - typically a bathroom or spare bedroom. This single-room introduction prevents overwhelming your kitten and makes it easier for them to find their litter box, food, and water.
Set up the room with litter box in one corner (away from food and water), food and water bowls in another area, and bedding in a quiet spot. Add a few toys and a scratching post. Open the carrier and let your kitten emerge on their own timeline. Don't force them out.
First Hours: Observation and Patience
Some kittens immediately explore and play. Others hide for several hours. Both responses are normal. Sit quietly in the room, perhaps reading or using your phone, allowing your kitten to observe you and approach when ready.
Avoid forcing interaction. Let your kitten set the pace. When they do approach, offer a finger to sniff and speak softly. Short, calm interactions build trust more effectively than prolonged handling.
Show your kitten where the litter box is by gently placing them in it once, but don't force them to dig or stay. Most kittens instinctively understand litter boxes, especially if they've already been litter trained.
Days 1-3: Settling In
Feeding Schedule
Feed your kitten the same food they've been eating, on the same schedule. Kittens typically need 3-4 small meals daily. If you plan to transition to different food eventually, wait at least 2-3 weeks until your kitten is fully settled, then make the change gradually over 7-10 days by mixing increasing amounts of new food with decreasing amounts of old food.
Fresh water should always be available. Some cats prefer running water - if your kitten isn't drinking well, try a cat water fountain. Dehydration is serious in kittens, so monitor water intake carefully.
Litter Box Basics
Most kittens naturally use litter boxes with minimal training. Keep the box clean - scoop at least twice daily. Kittens are fastidious and may avoid a dirty box.
If your kitten has an accident, don't punish them. Simply clean the area thoroughly with enzymatic cleaner and ensure the litter box is accessible, clean, and in a quiet location. Most accidents result from stress, box being too dirty, or the kitten not being able to reach the box in time.
Monitor litter box use. Your kitten should urinate at least 2-3 times in the first 24 hours. If you don't see any elimination within 24 hours, or if your kitten strains to urinate or cries in the litter box, contact your veterinarian immediately. Urinary blockages are life-threatening emergencies.
Sleep Patterns
Kittens sleep 18-20 hours per day. This is completely normal and necessary for healthy development. However, kittens are crepuscular - most active at dawn and dusk. Don't be surprised if your kitten wants to play at 5 AM.
Establish a bedtime routine: vigorous play session, followed by a meal, followed by quiet time. This "hunt, eat, sleep" cycle mimics natural cat behavior and can help your kitten sleep through the night. Place a cozy bed in your room if you want your kitten near you at night, but ensure they have easy access to litter box, food, and water.
Building Trust Through Play
Play is how kittens learn, burn energy, and bond with you. Use interactive toys like feather wands and laser pointers (always end laser play by letting your kitten "catch" a physical toy). Avoid using your hands or feet as toys - this teaches that human skin is acceptable to bite and scratch, leading to behavioral problems as your cat matures.
Play sessions should be 10-15 minutes, 3-4 times daily. Stop before your kitten becomes overstimulated, which can lead to aggressive play. Watch for signs like dilated pupils, tail lashing, and ears flattening - these indicate your kitten is getting too worked up.
Days 3-7: Expanding Territory
Gradual Room Introduction
Once your kitten is confident in their safe room - eating well, using the litter box consistently, and seeking interaction with you - you can begin expanding their territory. Open the door and allow your kitten to explore adjacent rooms at their own pace while supervising closely.
Don't force exploration. Some kittens venture out immediately; others take several days. Leave the door to the safe room open so your kitten can retreat when feeling overwhelmed. Ensure litter boxes, food, and water remain accessible during exploration.
Add litter boxes in new areas if your home is large. The general rule is one box per cat plus one extra, distributed throughout the home. This prevents accidents if your kitten gets distracted during play and doesn't make it back to the original box in time.
Meeting Other Household Members
Introduce family members gradually. Children should be taught to approach calmly, let the kitten come to them, and use gentle touches. Supervise all interactions and enforce rules: no picking up the kitten without permission, no disturbing the kitten while eating or sleeping, and no loud noises or sudden movements.
If you have other pets, introductions require careful management. Keep pets separated initially, allowing them to smell each other under doors. Feed them on opposite sides of a closed door to create positive associations. Supervise all face-to-face meetings and intervene if play becomes too rough. Proper introductions can take 2-4 weeks. Never rush this process.
Handling and Grooming
Start handling your kitten's paws, ears, and mouth gently for short periods. This prepares them for grooming, nail trims, and veterinary examinations. Always pair handling with treats and praise.
Brush your kitten daily, even if they have short fur. This establishes grooming as a positive routine and helps you monitor for fleas, skin issues, or lumps. Use a soft brush and keep sessions short - 2-3 minutes initially.
Introduce nail trimming gradually. Touch your kitten's paws, press gently on pads to extend claws, and offer treats. Once comfortable with paw handling, trim just the very tip of one nail, then treat and release. Build up to trimming all nails over several sessions. Most kittens need nail trims every 2-3 weeks.
First Veterinary Visit
Schedule a veterinary exam within the first week, ideally within 48-72 hours of bringing your kitten home. Even if your kitten seems healthy, this visit establishes baseline health, begins the vaccination schedule, and allows you to discuss nutrition, parasite prevention, and spaying/neutering timing.
What to Bring
- Medical records from your breeder, shelter, or rescue
- A list of questions you have about kitten care
- A fresh fecal sample (within 24 hours) for parasite testing
- Information about your kitten's diet and any supplements
What to Expect
Your veterinarian will perform a complete physical examination, checking eyes, ears, mouth, heart, lungs, abdomen, skin, and coat. They'll discuss vaccination schedule (typically starting at 6-8 weeks with boosters every 3-4 weeks until 16 weeks), parasite prevention, and spay/neuter timing (usually 4-6 months of age, though some veterinarians recommend earlier for shelter kittens).
Ask about FeLV/FIV testing if not already done. These viral diseases have no cure and can be transmitted to other cats. If you plan to let your cat outdoors or have other cats, knowing your kitten's status is crucial.
Common First-Week Challenges
Excessive Hiding
Some kittens hide for 2-3 days. This is a normal stress response. Ensure food, water, and litter box are accessible in the hiding area. Resist the urge to pull your kitten out. Instead, spend quiet time in the room, perhaps reading aloud. Place treats near the hiding spot and gradually move them further away, encouraging your kitten to emerge for rewards.
Diarrhea
Stress-related diarrhea is common in the first few days. If your kitten is otherwise active, eating, and drinking, monitor closely. Ensure they're staying hydrated. If diarrhea lasts more than 48 hours, contains blood, or your kitten shows lethargy or stops eating, contact your veterinarian immediately. Young kittens dehydrate very quickly.
Excessive Vocalization
Crying, especially at night, is normal for kittens separated from their mothers and siblings. Provide a warm water bottle wrapped in a towel, a ticking clock to mimic a heartbeat, and a soft toy. Keep your kitten's sleeping area near you for comfort. The vocalization typically decreases after 3-5 days once your kitten feels secure.
Not Eating
Mild appetite reduction from stress is normal, but kittens cannot safely go more than 24 hours without eating. Try warming food slightly to enhance aroma, offering different textures (pâté vs. chunks), or hand-feeding a few pieces. If your kitten refuses food for more than 24 hours or shows other concerning symptoms, contact your veterinarian immediately.
Key Takeaways
• Start small by confining your kitten to one room initially, then gradually expand territory as confidence builds.
• Let your kitten set the pace for interaction and exploration - forcing contact damages trust.
• Maintain consistency in feeding schedule, litter box location, and daily routines.
• Schedule a vet visit within the first week even if your kitten appears healthy.
• Play appropriately using toys, never hands or feet, to prevent behavioral problems.
• Monitor elimination - lack of urination or defecation within 24 hours requires veterinary attention.
• Be patient - adjustment takes time, and every kitten is different.
Looking Ahead
The first week is just the beginning of your life together. As your kitten settles in, you'll continue building your bond through play, training, and daily care routines. The foundation you establish this week - trust, security, and positive associations - will shape your relationship for years to come.
Remember that kitten-raising involves a learning curve for both of you. Mistakes will happen, and that's okay. What matters is consistency, patience, and genuine affection. Before you know it, your tiny kitten will be a confident cat who rules your home and your heart.
Additional Resources
For more detailed information, consult these trusted resources:
Medical Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional veterinary advice. Always consult with a licensed veterinarian before making decisions about your pet's health or care.